Friday, June 1st Jenn and I got up early and got everything sorted before we set off for the Edinburgh airport. We checked in smoothly, got some lunch and then when our gate was announced, we proceeded to our gate. All the while feeling a little overwhelmed and giddy about the fact that yes, we were going to spend the weekend in Paris! It was only an hour and half flight and we arrived 20 minutes early into Paris-Beauvais airport. Jenn was held up a little bit in the customs line, mostly because the guy in front of her was of some interest to the customs agent and he was eventually taken into a private interview room. Not sure what it was all about, but apparently there was some problem with his passport. While waiting for Jenn I found the machine to buy our bus tickets to get into the city. This airport is about 80 miles from the heart of Paris and it cost us 15 Euros each for the ride. Eventually we got onto the bus, after the driver made us get out of line and put our backpacks down with all the rest of the luggage, and strapped in for what ended up being a long, long drive. It was hot, there was bad traffic…not sure it was worth the cheapness of the flight to go into that airport.
Eventually we were in the city and in a coach park outside a mall. We finally managed to find a Metro station after going the wrong way, asking some guys who pointed us in the wrong direction, and then finally getting proper directions. We bought packs of 10 Metro tickets each so we’d be set for the weekend. Jenn got stuck in the automatic gate when we tried to get through because her arms were so full and her backpack was so heavy. I’m not quite sure how she pushed her way out, but she did thankfully! We thought we were finally on our way to the hotel but the first train that came into the station was completely packed full. So was the second. By the time the third one came we decided we had to just push and that’s what we did. We wedged ourselves in and hoped for the best for the few stops we had to go on that line.
We tumbled out at the proper station, navigated our way through to another platform and got onto the train that would take us to our home for the weekend. This one was much emptier and we managed to get seats which were very welcome at that point. By now it was about 8pm and we were both getting rather tired, hungry and just ready to get there. We had about 15 stops to get to where we got out and armed with Jenn’s map and my directions from the hotel, we stepped out onto a quiet Paris street. After a few confused moments and much consultation of the map which was missing quite a few street names, we found the right street right in front of us. Checking into the hotel was as easy as broken English and precious little French can be but we eventually got our key and headed upstairs to our room.
Our great little room
It was a very basic room but it had two beds, space to hang up our clothes and our own bathroom. Much better than some of the places Brandon and I have stayed so far this year. We unpacked and cleaned up a bit before heading back out into the Paris evening. We had to turn our room key back in at reception every time we left the hotel which we both felt a little odd about, but because it was an actual key instead of a magnetized card we figured it was probably due to years of lost keys and a staff that was tired of breaking into rooms for people. We stopped at Carrefour, the little grocery store on the corner for sandwiches and fruit to eat for supper before we descended back down into the Metro station on our way to the Trocadero area and our first view of the Eiffel Tower.
The weekend's first view of the Eiffel Tower
And oh, the views we had! I remembered the place from spending two days in Paris in 2010 with the band and just knew I had to take Jenn there. We arrived just in time to see the end of the sparkling light show on the tower and we spent about half an hour taking photos and just loving the moment. It was warm and everyone was in this blissful touristy cloud of happiness. Jenn set up her tripod and did her thing while I sat and listened to a man with a guitar and an amp try to entertain the growing crowd by taking requests. He couldn’t really sing, but he was funny and it was neat to be a part of it. We ate our make-shift supper and thoroughly enjoyed the time.
We packed everything up and headed down through the park and across the Seine river to see the tower close up. By now it was nearing midnight and there were still so many people out enjoying the night. We saw another light show begin as we finished up under the tower and walked back up through the park toward the Metro station. We made it back to the hotel tired and happy and while I got ready for bed Jenn set about trying to upload her daily photo to her blog. It wasn’t easy and it took a little longer than hoped, but eventually she got it posted and we had a much deserved night’s sleep.
View from one side of the bridge
And the view back towards Trocadero
Saturday morning arrived and we went downstairs in the hotel for breakfast. It was 5 Euros each and so not worth it. We’d asked the front desk guy the night before what it was and when he struggled to tell us it was a bread roll and a croissant with butter and jam, coffee and tea we thought oh okay, continental style. We thought there’d be fruit and other bits and pieces too but really, it was just a roll, a croissant, a pat of butter, a package of jam, a triangle of Laughing Cow cheese, and a cup of hot chocolate. That’s it. We bought lunch supplies from the Carrefour vowing we’d get breakfast somewhere else the next morning.
We took the Metro to the Montmartre area and began to walk. And walk and walk and walk. And then came the stairs. And there were many, many, many of those! But when we finally got to the top of the hill and saw
Basilica Sacre Coure we agreed it was so worth the work. It’s stunningly white and the sky behind it that morning was bluer than I’d seen in months so I was a little bit in awe of it. There were hundreds of people milling about and sitting on the steps below looking out over the city. We took our time here taking in the sight of it all and then we ventured inside. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the church but what an incredible place. I’ve seen a lot of beautiful old places in the past nine months, but this one was by far one of the best. Arches and light coming from every direction you looked…it was all just stunning.
Paris from above
The stunning Sacre Coure
Reluctantly we left and spent some more time outside taking loads of photos. We did a little shopping here too and found really great prints of Paris scenes for just 0.90 Euro each. I also bought a small oil painting on canvas that depicts Notre Dame Cathedral. We started walking again and eventually found the street we needed to be on. We had two maps and neither of them had the streets we seemed to be walking on printed in them. We kind of took a guess and just followed groups of people through stereotypical French neighborhoods and down streets that looked exactly like I wanted them to. We shopped some more in a brilliantly colored street that was so packed full of people it was hard to get around with our backpacks on. I bought a gorgeous scarf that makes up for loosing the more touristy one I bought here on the first trip in the move last winter and Jenn found a notebook and magnet with the iconic black cat she loves so much.
The busy shopping street
This was just about the most perfect street
One of the many staircases we saw - or climbed - in the area.
Eventually we found our way after what seemed like miles and miles to the Montmartre Cemetery. We ate our lunches here - in the shade of the overpass that goes right over top of some of the mausoleums. We wandered around a bit afterwards and admired some of the fancier plots. Or well, not plots as there are no in ground graves. They’re all family tombs I guess but they’re very small so maybe this is just where the family comes to pray? Not sure. Either way, some of them are very elaborate with stained glass windows and shrines inside. I found it very interesting that there are water pumps scattered about and you can borrow watering cans from the front gate to take care of your spot. There are some famous names in the cemetery but we didn’t find any we recognized.
Around the corner we found the Moulin Rouge - a must see on both our lists. But we were both a little disappointed. It’s definitely famous and there were tour buses going by and loads of people milling about taking photos. And by the price of the show tickets, it’s still a pretty popular place to go. But I guess I was expecting a little more glitz. Oh well, at least I’ve seen it finally! We took a much deserved break at the Starbuck’s across the street and used their wi-fi for Jenn to post her blog photo while we sipped on strawberry frappuccinos.
Not quite as glamourous as expected, but still a great place to see.
Back up and out, we hit took the Metro to the Arc de Triomphe. What a sight that is when you come up the stairs from the station! There are about a million cars zooming around it in no apparent order whatsoever and just as many people on the sidewalks taking photos. We found the entrance to the underpass and thought we’d go up underneath it but turns out you have to pay 8 Euros to do so. We just went along to the other side instead and took pictures from that angle as well.
Front view
Jenn!
Back view
Me!
From there we walked down the Champ Elysees and window shopped and people watched. We eventually found a Disney Store and Jenn bought a couple of things there. I was disappointed that we didn’t see any designer stores. Maybe we were on the wrong side of the street or maybe I should’ve done more research. But I was hoping to see Chanel or some other big names. I’ve always thought it would be cool to buy Chanel perfume from the Chanel shop in Paris. No such luck. Anyway, we diverted a little from the path and ended up in front of the Grand and Petit Palais. Once palaces I think they are now museums, galleries and concert halls. We didn’t go in, just took lots of photos outside and enjoyed the shade for a little while. I was starting to notice quite the sunburn on my shoulders and our feet were starting to get really sore. We decided to keep going and made our way across a rather fabulous bridge back toward the tower.
Statues on top of the Grand Palais
View from the Le pot Alexandre III bridge
Eventually we found a café that was open and serving dinner already. Most didn’t open for another hour or so and we were starved. We didn’t have the greatest meal, I had past and Jenn had a chicken club sandwich, but we did have a glass of wine each and we made the best of it. We went back to the Eiffel Tower and looked at the length of the lines. There was some sort of a problem at the time with one of the lifts so only one was running. That meant that line up was about for hours long. The line for taking the stairs was considerably shorter, but with Jenn’s slight fear of heights we didn’t think it was maybe the best thing to do. We set up in the park behind the tower instead and got some really nice photos and just people watched.
The artist at work!
I ate a chocolate and strawberry crepe from a vendor and Jenn had a really good slushy lemonade, and we bought tickets for a river cruise we’d take later in the evening. We searched for macaroons, we were both sure we’d seen them the night before in this area at one of the vendor stands. We couldn’t find them though and both started to think we were going a little crazy. We spent a couple of hours just wandering around, sitting on benches on both sides of the river, enjoying the weather and the fact that we were in Paris! Eventually we headed back to where we got on our boat and had a good surprise - finally found the macaroons too. We had to wait about half an hour for the boat but we got good seats right on the edge settled in for our cruise.
It was an hour long and we got to see 22 of the 38 bridges that cross the river. There was French, English and Spanish commentary along the way telling about some of the famous buildings on the banks and some history as well. Most notably Notre Dame Cathedral and the Louvre which we were going to see the next morning. There we so, so many people sitting out on the banks of the river. They were all happy and laughing and seemed to be having just a great time. I don’t think it was a holiday or anything, I think that’s just what you do on a Saturday night. Looked like fun anyway.
View of the tower from the boat
This is Le pot Alexandre III bridge again from below
Notre Dame Cathedral
We were up early on Sunday morning and had planned to get our breakfast and lunch at the Carrefour but sadly it wasn’t open. We’d checked out of the hotel, but wouldn’t have gone back there for breakfast if it was free so we just made our way to the Metro and Notre Dame. We were kind of lucky in that there weren’t too many people there yet. I mean, there were lots, but not nearly as many as I think there are later in the day. We spent lots of time taking photos outside first and then went in as well. We were allowed to take pictures inside here thankfully. But Mass was going on so that felt a little odd. I had been here before with the band in 2010 but I didn’t really remember it at all. I love the glow and low light throughout the whole place and even though there were loads and loads of people pushing you along, it felt quite hushed. Not calm by any means and not really all that church like in my opinion, but hushed and reverent for sure.
Notre Dame from outside
These friendly guys look down from the top of the cathedral scaring away all bad spirits
Inside...all light and shadows
I thought this statue was beautiful
Looking forward from the entrance to altar
When we went back outside we made the decision not to line up and climb the 422 steps to the top of the towers. I don’t know if they’d have let us anyway as we were carrying our full back packs and Jenn’s tripod so we might’ve been too wide on the stairs. Instead we bought the most amazing hotdogs I’ve ever had from a street vendor and ate them as brunch under the huge rose window of the cathedral. It was starting to rain a little bit and the sun that we’d loved the day before was not to be seen. Not so bad since my shoulders were pink enough!
We went back to the Metro and too the train just a few stops to the Louvre. It was just before 11am at that point and we thought we’d be fine to get in. But the line at that point was just reaching the three hour marker. In planning our itinerary for the weekend I thought it best to take advantage of the free admission on that Sunday for the Louvre. I didn’t take into account that every other tourist in the city would be doing the same thing. Because we had to be back on the Metro on the way to our airport bus by 1:30, we decided we didn’t have enough time to go in. I was so upset and so disappointed for Jenn as that was one of her must see’s for sure. Who doesn’t want to see the Mona Lisa at the very least when they’re in Paris? But we spent the time instead admiring the glass pyramids outside and the former palace itself. We wandered down to the banks of the Seine and walked there for a bit and then found ourselves in a lovely garden where we rested for a while. We had croissants and pan au chocolates from a little patisserie cart and then set about repacking our bags for the airport.
All those people on the right side of the photo - they're in line. It continued all the way out of the building along the street. And the actual entrance was quite a way beyond where I took the photo.
This arch was once a rather grand entrance to the palace
The best photo I could get of the whole place.
A statue in the garden
On the way back to the Metro station we shopped for a few last minute bits and pieces and then found ourselves rather stuck trying to cross the street. There was some sort of bike rally going on and there were hundreds of people on bikes exactly where we needed to be. They didn’t appear to be stopping any time soon and with a schedule to keep, we kind of just darted across trying not to get hit or knock anyone down. We made it finally but I think we made a few of the riders rather mad!
We caught our train that took us back to the Porte Mallot station and then found our way to the coach park. When we bought our tickets and they asked which flight we were on that day they made us wait an hour for the next bus. I was so mad because they’d told us to be there three and a half hours before our flight which we were. If we’d known we had an extra hour, we could’ve gone into the Louvre after all. Eventually I calmed down and we went into the mall across the street to find bathrooms and to our surprise, more macaroons. These ones were so much better though so it was all worth it I guess.
I slept for most of the ride out to the airport and once we were there, the process was very fast. We checked in, went through the passport check and security really quickly. We took turns looking through the duty free shop and we bought snacks for the flight. When they announced our gate we had to go through a second passport check which was actually where we got our stamps. We lined up, got on the plane and headed for home.
It was an absolute whirlwind of a weekend and as I sit here reliving it all through my notes, I can’t believe we were actually there. I was so amazingly grateful to have been able to share it with Jenn. For as long as I’ve known her she’s talked about going to Paris so being there with her and sharing the experience with her was an amazing honour. As for me, I didn’t think I’d get go back so seeing not only the things I’d seen before again but also those that I’d missed last time was awesome. It was one of the best weekends I've had in a very long time and it was a fantastic way to start Jenn's European adventure.
What a awersome weekend it was! I still can't belive we were there! Thankyou so much for making my Paris dream come true! It was so nice to be able re-live the weekend through your blog!
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