Berwick Upon Tweed

On Sunday we spent the day in Berwick Upon Tweed. It’s about an hour’s train ride south of here and it’s a gorgeous seaside town at the top of the Northumberland area of England. The destination came very highly recommended by two people I work with and a few from Brandon’s work too.

We started the day without much of a plan. We knew a few basics about what might be good to see but we decided rather than have maps and itineraries, we’d just wing it. We began with a trip to McDonald’s for breakfast on the way to the train station. This is a singular treat for us now…long gone are the days of grabbing breakfast burritos at the drive-thru on the way to work. We caught the 10:33 train and ours was the first stop on this service ultimately bound for London. It was a beautiful ride and the view soon changed from green rolling fields to shoreline cliffs. The best part for me was seeing all the sheep of course.

Sheep and the sea...perfection!

We pulled into the Berwick station at about ten past 11. We began by wandering from the station in the direction we thought was towards the centre of town. But we got a little sidetracked by a small path and we followed it down to the quay side where we got some great photos of the bridges. Up another path and we then rather quickly found ourselves in front of a church. Service had just let out and we tried to go sneak a peek inside, but we were turned away due to a meeting that was taking place. We wandered through the cemetery for a bit and I tried to find a Summers’ monument since we found out the night before that Brandon’s family came from that area. No luck there, but we quickly drifted towards another church that’s set inside the walls of the cemetery. The door was unlocked but until we found a sign that said visitors were welcome, I wouldn’t let Brandon go in. When we did go in though, we were so glad we did. It was beautiful and so perfectly silent and still. I love finding churches like that. While I know the big ones (Westminster in particular) are still houses of worship first, they just somehow lack the presence that small, seemingly undiscovered churches have. We didn’t even take pictures inside because it just seemed like it would be wrong.

The path down to the quayside walk.

Monuments inside the cemetery.

The Catholic church.

We could see the Berwick Barracks, a complex we knew was there, but it’s all closed up for the winter so we couldn’t go in. We made our way back towards the centre of town, bought a magnet for our fridge, and got a map from the shop owner. Then we made our way back towards the train station which turns out is built on the site of the old castle. There’s not much left now, and what is there is in the middle of a cattle pasture. We walked up the hill and climbed over the wall to see what is obviously a party spot. There was garbage all over and graffiti which made me a little sad. But, we took pictures through the windows in the wall and then made our way down the hill to the river bank where we stood and visited with the cows a bit. There was another view point to climb up on and this spot afforded great views of the rail bridge. Brandon tried to blaze his own path up the hill but didn’t get far due to the amazingly thick ivy growing everywhere.

Iside the ruins of the castle.

A great view of the rail bridge.

Back up into town and into a chippy for lunch. We shared an order of fish and chips and a small pizza which was all very good. And then, since I was lucky enough to have caught a wicked cold last week, we went into the grocery store to buy some drugs. And Kleenex. Lots and lots of Kleenex. And that’s when we found the old town wall. Berwick has a very turbulent past. It’s changed hands between the English and the Scots about 15 times since the 16^th century due to its strategic location between the Tweed River and the ocean. The wall is built up with gun placements and bunkers and you can walk around almost the whole town.

Walking on the town wall.

We stopped at a gate to chat a bit with some ladies out walking their super friendly collie dog and eventually found our way to the street that lead us to the breakwater and lighthouse. I couldn’t smell the ocean due to my cold, but Brandon said it wasn’t too fishy smelling, just salty. Even without the scent I was flooded with memories of all the walks we took along the breakwater in Victoria when Grandma and Grandpa Penner lived there. This wasn’t nearly as wide or as long and we couldn’t go right out to the end where the lighthouse was placed though, a fact that made Brandon quite sad. They’d even extended the fence out beyond the cement walkway so you couldn’t just step out and around the edge. We stood around here for a while and then made our way back. We didn’t get very far though before I jumped down onto the beach to collect a little bit of sand. And to take a picture of a piece of driftwood. And to pick up seashells. I could’ve spent hours there searching for the perfect shell but it was getting rather chilly and we had a way to go yet.

This is as close to the lighthouse we could get.

Best self portrait of the day!

A rather huge piece of driftwood on the beach.

We found our way back up onto the wall and we just wandered a bit into town too, and eventually found our way back to the main street. There was a fabulous little antique shop that had the cutest little collection of mini teapots in the window, but it was closed so I couldn’t inspect it closer. Probably a good thing! We decided to call it a day and made it over to the train station. Back to Edinburgh and back to home. It was a fabulous day.

And this photo is just a friendly reminder that it is January!

Calton Hill Sunset

Just a quick post to share some photos from last night's sunset. I walked Brandon to work, toured myself through the National Gallery, bought a cup of tea, and then headed up Calton Hill to watch the sunset. It is apparently the best place in the city to take one in and I have to say I now agree.

A Scottish man came and talked to me while I was up on the hill and told me that he thought my accent was more English than Canadian. I found him a little creepy, but he was a very good example of how friendly and open to chatting most people here are.

Uncomfortable

I'm currently watching the film The Reader on TV. It’s the second time I’ve seen it and I’ve read the book too. It’s just now at the part where young Michael is at university and is attending Hannah’s trial. One of his classmates has brought up a point that everyone at the time knew what was going on and did nothing. He said that if he was handed a gun in the courtroom, he would shoot Hannah and the other five women on trial with her without question.

It got me thinking: What would I do? What a horribly uncomfortable question. If I, like the character Hannah, had taken a job for the SS and found myself suddenly in the middle of something I didn’t expect, would I try to get out? Would I run - desert my post? Would I stand up for or decide against killing the people I was there to guard? Would my sense of compassion and true morality be able to overrule my base human nature to protect my own life? Could I stand in front of a bullet aimed at a woman whose only crime was that she was born into a religion other than my own?

I’d like to believe that I would be brave enough to know that what was happening around me was wrong. I’d like to think I would be like those generals who plotted against Hitler from inside his own army.

But if I’m being fully honest with myself, I don’t know if I could. Could you?

One of my goals while living here in Europe is to go to an internment camp. Not for some voyeuristic view of what happened or to selfishly get a glimpse to satisfy my curiosity of what a camp might look like. No, I want the shock of it. I want to see for myself the buildings and the wire so that I don’t ever begin to feel comfortable about this topic. No one should ever feel comfortable about it.

Empty Flat

Well, apparently I’m bad at posting. Sorry! Let me catch up. New Year’s Eve was a lot of fun. Graham and I met Brandon in the lounge of the Radisson when he was finished work and we made a much deserved stop at The Clam Shell for chips, cheese and gravy. We continued up the Royal Mile to find our spot for firework watching. We had hoped we might be able to get down onto the Mound which is a street that runs down below the castle and would give us a really good view. But the Mound was closed off due to the big party that was going on in the gardens. Instead we claimed our bit of street not far back from the barricade blocking the castle esplanade. We had to wait about twenty minutes and we were watching the time, but all of a sudden the fireworks started. We were a bit disappointed to not have taken part in a countdown, but the fireworks were awesome. It was so cool to see the castle underneath them and feel the crowd all around.

In the Clam Shell chippy

Mmmmm...

This is from our spot for the fireworks

They were over much too fast but we slowly made our way back down the hill at the same time as all the people in the gardens were getting out of the parties. What was a nearly deserted Royal Mile turned into quite the party. There was a guy playing bag pipes in front of one building and when he stopped to take a break Brandon asked if he could play a tune. So he did what he does best and soon everyone all around was dancing and having a great time. We eventually found a pub that wasn’t full or closed and we eventually fought our way to the bar for a drink. Graham was up for partying hard but Brandon was exhausted after just working a seriously busy ten hour day and I was ready for bed so we made our way back to the flat. In the pub just around the corner from us we heard a piper. That’s odd for this pub so the boys went in to check it out while I continued home. Brandon came in about twenty minutes later but Graham stayed out for a few more hours. I heard him come in but I have no idea what time it was!

Brandon playing for a very happy crowd!

We tried to keep Graham busy for the rest of his stay. He and Brandon went to Glasgow one day, he climbed the steps up to the top of the Scott Monument, went to Edinburgh Castle twice, he and Brandon went on a Highland and Loch Ness tour, he and I went to Craigmillar Castle and also to Stirling to see the Wallace Monument and the castle there, he toured Holyrood Palace, and the three of us had an amazing dinner at the Witchery which was a gift from Brandon and Graham’s mom and dad. I really hope he had a great time and that he felt welcome here and that he saw everything he wanted to. The flat feels much emptier now and we feel like we’re all of a sudden back to real life.  

Now about the Witchery dinner. What an awesome place. It’s located in a 16^th century building right up close to the castle. It’s decorated with gorgeous painted ceilings, leather seats, antique everything, and lit by nearly complete candlelight. The tables are set when you arrive with white napkins tied in red velvet ribbon and you just feel like you’re in a very elite and special place. We had quite the spread which included things like steak tartar, foie gras, pigeon, red deer, oysters, prawns, wine, port, scotch, crème brulee, cheese and the very sought after import – Yukon Gold potatoes. It was a great experience and I think I speak for my dinner companions when I say a huge thank you for the gift. Plus, I got to wear my new shoes which made the night even sweeter.

So now we’re in January and we have to start thinking about bills and things again. Boo. Brandon’s starting to amp up his practicing schedule as the push to the spring and summer competitions is going to start very soon. As am I since my band is aiming to win the grade three pool at World’s. I’m also in job search mode again which is not going all that well so far. I’ve been kept on at Paperchase but only on a four hour per week contract. So far I’m getting a minimum of twelve hours, but that’s not nearly enough. I love the job and the people there so I’m so happy to stay, but I just wish it was more full time.

And that’s got us caught up again. I’m still writing my Scottish Life posts so watch for more in the (hopefully) near future. I’m off now to clean Simon Fish’s tank.

Hogmanay

Today is New Year’s Eve, also known as Hogmanay here in Edinburgh. There are all sorts of events happening and it all began yesterday with the Torchlight Procession. When I read about it online, I kind of assumed that the torches they were talking about would be flashlights or maybe glow sticks. But as it turned out, for a 7 Pound donation to a local charity, we were given a stick, about three feet in length, that was wrapped in wax coated fabric. We arrived on the High Street at about 6pm and waited with a massive crowd of people for the event to begin. It took a while, but eventually the fire started to make its way back to us. People were passing the flame back and back and everyone was lighting their torch from the person in front of them. And then we started to walk.

We walked from St. Giles Cathedral on the Royal Mile to the base of Calton Hill which is about a mile, carrying our lit torches. There was a light show and fireworks in the park at the top of the hill, but because there were so many people (the website said to expect 20,000) we weren’t able to get close to the gates. But we could still see the fireworks which was a good ending to our walk.

It was such a great experience to be a part of such a huge crowd of people just having fun. We couldn’t get over how there were so many people in such a tight, confined space walking around with open fire. And kids too. That would never happen in Calgary! But it was calm, there weren’t any people being stupid, and we didn’t see anyone getting into or starting trouble. It was another one of those moments where Brandon and I looked at each other and said, “Wow…can you believe we’re here and doing this?!” And I think it was a great thing for Graham to do as a tourist here too.

Tonight, it’s New Year’s Eve and this is a night that is huge in Edinburgh. There is a street party with multiple stages set up for concerts, there is a mini film festival, a ceilidh, and a massive fireworks display fired off from the castle at midnight. Tickets for the party and all the concerts were only 15 Pounds, but they close all the entry gates at 11 – and Brandon is working till 11. But luckily, most of the festivities are happening on Princes Street and not the Mile. So Graham and I are going to meet Brandon when he’s done and we’re going to try to get as close to the castle as we can to watch the fireworks.

I’m a little nervous about the number of people there will be out and about. Graham and I spent a few hours this afternoon at the castle wandering around and even at 4:00 when we were on our way back to the flat, there were way more people on the Mile than I’ve seen yet. The website says to come and party with 80,000 of your closest friends and if last night was any indication, I have no doubt there will be that many. I just hope we actually find Brandon! I’ll post photos and a play by play of what the night was like tomorrow.

When I look back at 2011 I can’t help but think that it’s been such an amazing year. I feel like I’ve grown so much and actually figured out more about myself than I’ve ever known before. I found out that I am able to accept more change than I thought I could, I now know that challenge really does make you stronger, and I learned that facing life with a partner is the very best feeling in the world. I can’t wait to see what 2012 has to bring.

Happy New Year everyone!

A Happy Christmas in Edinburgh

We had a beautiful Christmas Eve and a wonderful Christmas morning!

Last night Brandon, Graham and I went to St. Giles Cathedral for a candlelight carol service at 11:30. There were hundreds of people there and between the pipe organ and the choir, there were moments of absolute magic.

This is the view from our seats in church.

The Summers' boys clean up pretty good!

Thanks for the great photo taking skills Graham!

And this morning, we got up and attacked all the presents under the tree. And I have to say that for being so far away I sure feel a whole lot of love from our families. Graham brought along gifts from the Summers' and from my parents and brother too. And with all of that and the gifts we bought for eachother, there was quite the scene of wrapping paper carnage on the living room floor.

Our stockings were too full and heavy to hang by the fire!

The pre-unwrapping stage.

Graham opening his rugby jersey.

Brandon inspecting his lego Mater from Cars.

 

Graham putting together the spinner he bought me.

Simon Fish got a present too! And he loves it!

After all was opened.

A new yoyo!

And finally, Santa listened! These were under the tree! And I proceeded to wear them through breakfast.

Merry Christmas everyone! We hope everyone has had as great of a Christmas morning as we have.

Welcome aboard

We have our first visitor staying with us – Graham has arrived from Canada! He got here on Thursday and Brandon went to London to meet him. They spent the day on a rather whirlwind tour of the city and then caught a train to Edinburgh that evening. We’ve had a good first few days and I think Graham has started to enjoy the city. He’s starting to get the lay of the land and has even gotten tattooed already! He and Brandon went to the castle yesterday and today we went to the Royal Yacht, to the chippy on the Royal Mile for dinner, and then to the Christmas fair. It was a busy and rather chilly day.

We’re getting ready for Christmas here in Edinburgh. Graham brought along so many gifts from so many people that we’re so grateful for even though we’ve not opened them. I’m finding it hard to feel “in the spirit” this year. Without snow and the usual parties and family stuff to look forward to, it just doesn’t quite feel the same. Although, last year didn’t feel the same either considering all the packing I was doing to move out of my apartment and, well, there was that whole Mexico thing. But we both have the 24^th and 25^th off so Brandon, Graham and I are going to try to find something especially festive to do. And I’m really looking forward to going to the midnight service on the 24^th at St. Giles Cathedral.

I know I haven’t written much lately (again) but I’ve been working a lot of hours. For an eight hour per week contract, I’ve been very lucky to have picked up a lot of shifts. Last week I worked 32 hours and the week before I did 35. By the time I get home I kind of just want to sit and be quiet and turn off my brain for a while. The scary thing is that this job is ending for me in the first week of January and I have to go back to the job search. That’s another stressor that is keeping me from feeling festive I think.

Now to end off this post, here’s another installment of the Scottish life posts. Hope everyone has a great week before Christmas!

What’s For Dinner? Cooking here at home is not all that different except that we have far fewer kitchen gadgets and tools. And, if you watched our video tour, you’ll agree that there is a distinct lack of space. We’ve been able to cook together just a few times so far because when we attempt it, we always get in each other’s way.

Because our flat is rented as furnished, the kitchen was fitted out rather well. But quite a bit of the stuff was more than a little sketchy. We put the burned pots and set of serrated knives away and bought our own set of pots and a frying pan from Ikea, along with some essentials like a cheese grater and cutlery. We also picked up a spatula and some serving tools, a set of wine glasses, a strainer and a big mixing bowl from the Poundsaver store. When Brandon started working and needed to take his good knives with him every day, we bought two knives for home and just recently we added some glasses to the cupboard as well since we were drinking everything out of coffee mugs. We currently only have one oven safe dish though and eventually I’d like to add to that arsenal before we attempt our Christmas dinner plans. Especially since we’ve both nearly set the microwave on fire by putting metal items in there are turning it on, thinking it was set to convection. Oops!

Cooking a large meal is a little like camping. I’m learning from Brandon how to get everything done efficiently with just one frying pan. Take for example making a big weekend breakfast. Potatoes go in first and when they’re done they go into the medium sized pot to keep warm. The bacon goes in the pan next and then into the small pot with paper towel to soak up the grease. Then we do my scrambled eggs because they have to be cooked until no longer wiggly, and finally Brandon’s fried eggs go into the pan while the toast is toasting. It works alright, but the potatoes do get a little soggy by the time we’re ready to dish up. We did French toast last weekend which obviously added one more stage to the process. Glad Brandon was in charge that day!